Climbing in Orco Valley Multipitch routes at Sergent and Caporal on the trail of Nuovo Mattino Canavese Piedmont

Climbing in Orco Valley: Multipitch Routes on Sergent and Caporal Tracing the Nuovo Mattino – Canavese, Piedmont

Welcome to the epic adventure that awaits you in the magnificent Orco Valley, a paradise for climbers known worldwide!

This valley is called the “European Yosemite” because its majestic rock walls are reminiscent of the iconic ones of the famous Yosemite, albeit on a smaller scale. It was here, in the 70s, during the era of the “Nuovo Mattino” (New Morning), that a revolution took place, forever transforming the world of mountaineering and climbing in Italy and beyond.

It is precisely to remember the mythical Captain of Yosemite that the walls between Noasca and Ceresole were named by their discoverers and pioneers in the 70s Caporal and Sergent.

Quoting the words of Mike Kosterlitz, who, along with Gian Piero Motti, is one of the main protagonists of the Nuovo Mattino: “It was incredible, simply incredible. There was that continuous succession of granite walls, each one more beautiful and bigger than the last, where everything was yet to be done. It was like discovering a Yosemite behind your doorstep. For me, used to the small walls of Wales and Derbyshire, exploited to the last hold, it was paradise on earth. There was more virgin rock on Caporal alone than in all of Snowdonia. We just had to decide where to go, it was absolutely incredible that such places still existed.”

If you are fascinated by the history of the “Nuovo Mattino”, we invite you to explore the page dedicated to this revolutionary movement that shaped the history of the valley. You can find it HERE.

With our 2-day package, we offer you the opportunity to retrace the historic climbs of these iconic walls.

You will tackle the mythical walls of Sergent, Caporal, or the Torre di Aimonin through the most important and significant routes, or you can choose from a targeted selection of the most famous and beautiful cracks and dihedrals in the valley, such as the Fessura della disperazione, Incastromania, Sitting Bull, the Pachyderm’s Ear, or the impressive Nanchez dihedral.

Based on your level of experience, we will select the most suitable routes to guarantee you a challenging and rewarding experience. The granite, the cracks, and the history that permeates the southern side of the Gran Paradiso and the Orco Valley will leave you speechless.

You will be accompanied by certified mountain guides, fluent in English, who will lead you with professionalism and passion throughout the journey. This tour is designed for climbers with good rock climbing experience (5C/6A).

Don’t miss the opportunity to experience an unforgettable adventure among the peaks of the fascinating Italian Alps! Gran Paradiso National Park!