Climbing in Valle Orco. Multipitch routes and mountaineering on the trail of Nuovo Mattino Canavese - Gran Paradiso - Piedmont

#hashtag: Climbing Valle Orco, Mountaineering Piedmont, Climbing Piedmont - Trad Climbing

Welcome to the epic adventure that awaits you in the magnificent Orco Valley, a climber's paradise known throughout the world of climbing!

This valley is called the "European Yosemite" because its majestic rock walls resemble those iconic ones in the famous Yosemite, albeit on a smaller scale. It was right here, in the '70s, during the era of the "Nuovo Mattino," that a revolution took place, forever transforming the world of mountaineering and climbing in Italy and beyond.

It is to commemorate the legendary Captain of Yosemite that the walls between Noasca and Ceresole were named by their discoverers and pioneers in the '70s, Caporal and Sergent.

Quoting the words of Mike Kosterlitz, who, along with Gian Piero Motti, is one of the main protagonists of the Nuovo Martino: "It was incredible, simply incredible. There was this continuous succession of granite walls, each one more beautiful and bigger than the previous one, where everything was still to be done, everything. It was like discovering a Yosemite behind your doorstep. For me, used to the small walls of Wales and Derbyshire, exploited to the last hold, it was a paradise on earth. There was more untouched rock on Caporal alone than in all of Snowdonia. We just had to decide where to go; it was absolutely incredible that such places still existed."

If you are fascinated by the history of the "Nuovo Mattino," we invite you to explore the dedicated page to this revolutionary movement that has shaped the history of the valley. You can find it HERE.

With our 5-day package of  Trad Climbing, we offer you the opportunity to retrace the historic climbs of these walls and the isolated valleys that surround them. You will tackle the mythical walls of Sergent, Caporal, and Aimonin, and then conclude with two days of rock mountaineering in the remote and wild Piantonetto valley, another fundamental place in the history of Piedmontese mountaineering. You will be able to climb the iconic southern beak of Tribolazione or the impressive north-facing wall of Becco di Valsoera, offering almost 500m of pure granite.

Depending on your level of experience, we will select the most suitable routes to ensure you an exciting and rewarding challenge. The granite, cracks, and the history that permeates the southern slope of Gran Paradiso will leave you speechless.

You will be accompanied by certified alpine guides fluent in English, who will lead you professionally and passionately throughout the journey. This tour is designed for climbers with good rock experience (5C/6A).

But the opportunities don't stop there! Personalize your package according to your availability and individual preferences. We are here to fulfill your every request, adding or removing services to create the tailor-made experience you are looking for.

Don't miss the opportunity to live an unforgettable experience among the peaks of the fascinating Italian Alps!

1° Giorno:

• Meeting in the morning in Ceresole Reale with the Alpine Guide. Equipment check and car transfer to the TRAD cliffs around Ceresole
• Practice in the cliffs to familiarize yourself with the valley's granite and crack climbing techniques
• Packed lunch and relaxation
• In the afternoon, the practice in the cliffs will continue
• Dinner and overnight stay at Le Fonti Minerali refuge

EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING:
- Backpack (25/30L)
- Water bottle
- Trekking and climbing shoes
- Layered technical clothing suitable for mountaineering
- Down jacket
- Mountaineering pants
- Harness, lanyard, chalk bag, personal/individual gear
- Mountaineering helmet
- T-Shirts / spare layer
- Waterproof and windproof jacket (shell)
- Trekking poles
- Crack gloves and cold-resistant gloves

PERSONAL HYGIENE SUPPLIES:
- Face mask
- Sleeping bag liner
- Hand sanitizer gel

ACCESSORIES:
- Sunglasses
- Sunscreen with appropriate UV protection
- Lip balm with UV protection
- Mobile phone and charger
- Headlamp

ADDITIONAL RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES:
- Thermal underwear (in cold weather and based on personal preferences)
- First aid kit (important: adhesive bandages)
- Energy bars
- GPS
- Power bank for your mobile phone

REQUIRED TRAVEL DOCUMENTS:
- Identification card / Passport

If you need equipment or anything else, do not hesitate to contact us! We will take care of the rental and provide you with what you need!

Responsible Traveler

To travel in respect of the environment, places, and the people who welcome us:

- Always ask before photographing people
- Leave no trace of your passage, do not litter
- Do not collect "souvenirs" from protected natural environments and archaeological sites
- Always try to follow the trails, do not disturb animals, and do not damage plants
- Do not waste water and energy, precious resources for the entire planet
- Respect the rules established by the owners of the accommodation facilities

Accommodation and Meals

For a sustainable and low-impact tour, we propose B&Bs and hotels as the default accommodation options, with a strong focus on sustainability and eco-friendly facilities.
All breakfasts, lunches, and dinners are included and feature local and seasonal products. Any meals not mentioned in the description of the various stages are not included in the tour package. Each meal includes 1 liter of beer/wine/water or non-alcoholic beverages.

Whether you are traveling by train or by plane, the Orco Valley and Gran Paradiso National Park are easily accessible from the main stations and airports in Milan and Turin, in approximately 2-3 hours.

From Turin:
From Torino Lingotto, Porta Nuova, or Porta Susa train stations, take the Canavesana railway line towards Rivarolo Canavese.
At Rivarolo, disembark and take the bus to Ceresole Reale.

From Turin-Caselle Airport, take the train to Torino Dora station.
At Torino Dora, take the Canavesana railway line towards Rivarolo Canavese.
At Rivarolo, disembark and take the bus to Ceresole Reale.

From Milan:
From Milan Centrale station, take the train towards Torino Porta Nuova.
From Porta Nuova station, take the Canavesana railway line towards Rivarolo Canavese.
At Rivarolo, disembark and take the bus to Ceresole Reale.

From Milan Malpensa Airport, take the Malpensa Express train to Milan Centrale station.
At Milan Centrale, take a train to Torino Porta Nuova.
At Torino Porta Nuova, disembark, change trains, and take the Canavesana railway line towards Rivarolo Canavese.
Disembark at Rivarolo Canavese station and take the bus to Ceresole Reale.

Alternatively, by bus:
From Milan Malpensa Airport, take the SADEM bus to Torino Porta Susa station.
From Torino Porta Susa station, take the Canavesana railway line towards Rivarolo Canavese.
At Rivarolo, disembark and take the bus to Ceresole Reale.

By Car from Turin:
Drive towards the north ring road of Turin, take the exit to Caselle, and follow the Torino-Caselle expressway. Take the third exit towards Rivarolo/Parco Gran Paradiso (SS460) and follow it to Ceresole Reale.

By Car from Milan:
Take the A4 highway towards Turin, exit at Santhia' towards Ivrea/Aosta (E25), and at Ivrea, exit again and follow the signs to Ceresole Reale/Parco Gran Paradiso.

Contact us if you need a private transfer from Milan/Turin to Canavese, or if you require further information on how to reach us.