Climbing in Valle Orco Multipitch routes and mountaineering on the trail of Nuovo Mattino Canavese Gran Paradiso Piedmont

Climbing in Valle Orco: Multipitch routes and mountaineering in the footsteps of Nuovo Mattino

#hashtag: Climbing Valle Orco – Climbing Piedmont – Mountaineering Piedmont

Welcome to the epic adventure that awaits you in the magnificent Orco Valley, a climber’s paradise known throughout the climbing world!

This valley is called the “European Yosemite”, as the majestic rock walls recall the iconic ones of the famous Yosemite, albeit on a smaller scale. It was right here, in the 1970s, during the “Nuovo Mattino” era, that a revolution came to life, forever transforming the world of mountaineering and climbing in Italy and beyond.

It is precisely to remember the legendary Captain of Yosemite that the walls between Noasca and Ceresole were named Caporal and Sergent by its discoverers and ascentionists in the 70s.

Quoting the words of Mike Kosterlitz, who together with Gian Piero Motti is one of the main protagonists of Nuovo Martino: “It was incredible, simply incredible. There was that continuous succession of granite walls, one more beautiful and larger than the other, where everything still needed to be done, everything. It was like discovering a Yosemite on your doorstep. For me, accustomed to the small walls of Wales and Derbyshire, exploited to the last handhold, it was heaven on earth. There was more virgin rock on Caporal alone than in all of Snowdonia. We just had to decide where to go, it was absolutely incredible that there were still places like this”.

If you are fascinated by the history of “Nuovo Mattino”, we invite you to explore the page dedicated to this revolutionary movement that shaped the history of the valley. You can find it HERE.

With our 5-day package, we offer you the opportunity to retrace the historic climbs of these walls and the isolated valleys that surround them. You will face the legendary walls of Sergent, Caporal and the Aimonin Tower, and then conclude in style with two days of rock mountaineering in the remote and wild Piantonetto valley, another fundamental place in the history of Piedmontese mountaineering. You will be able to climb the iconic southern Becco della Tribulation, or the impressive NW face of Becco di Valsoera, which offers almost 500m of pure granite.

Based on your level of experience, we will select the most suitable routes to guarantee you an exciting and rewarding challenge. The granite, the cracks and the history that permeates the southern slope of the Gran Paradiso will leave you speechless.

You will be accompanied by certified mountain guides, fluent in English, who will lead you with professionalism and passion along the entire route. This tour is designed for climbers with good rock climbing experience (5C/6A).

But the opportunities don’t stop there! Customize your package to your liking, based on days of availability and individual preferences. We are here to satisfy your every request, adding or removing services to create the tailor-made experience you are looking for.

Don’t miss the opportunity to live an unforgettable experience among the peaks of the fascinating Italian Alps!