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Climbing in Valle Orco: Multipitch routes at Sergent and Caporal on the trail of Nuovo Mattino - Canavese - Piedmont

Noasca, Ceresole Reale

IT, EN

0.0/5
Welcome to the epic adventure that awaits you in the magnificent Orco Valley, a climber’s paradise known worldwide!

This valley is called the “European Yosemite” because its majestic rock walls resemble those iconic ones in the famous Yosemite, albeit on a smaller scale. It was right here, in the ’70s, during the era of the “Nuovo Mattino,” that a revolution took place, forever transforming the world of mountaineering and rock climbing in Italy and beyond.

It is to honor the legendary Capitan of Yosemite that the walls between Noasca and Ceresole were named by their discoverers and pioneers in the ’70s, Caporal and Sergent.

Quoting the words of Mike Kosterlitz, who, together with Gian Piero Motti, is one of the main protagonists of the Nuovo Martino: “It was incredible, simply incredible. There was this continuous succession of granite walls, each more beautiful and bigger than the previous one, where everything was still to be done, everything. It was like discovering a Yosemite behind your own doorstep. For me, accustomed to the small walls of Wales and Derbyshire, exploited to the last hold, it was a paradise on earth. There was more untouched rock on Caporal alone than in all of Snowdonia. We just had to decide where to go, it was absolutely incredible that such places still existed.”

If you are fascinated by the history of the “Nuovo Mattino,” we invite you to explore the dedicated page to this revolutionary movement that has shaped the history of the valley. You can find it HERE.

With our 2-day package, we offer you the opportunity to relive the historic climbs of these iconic walls. You will tackle the mythical walls of Sergent, Caporal, or Torre di Aimonin through the most important and significant routes, or you can choose from a targeted selection of the valley’s most famous and beautiful cracks and dihedrals, such as Fessura della disperazione, Incastromania, Sitting Bull, Orecchio del Pachiderma, or the impressive Nanchez dihedral.

Based on your level of experience, we will select the most suitable routes to provide you with an exciting and rewarding challenge. The granite, cracks, and the history that permeate the south face of Gran Paradiso and the Orco Valley will leave you speechless.

You will be accompanied by certified mountain guides, fluent in English, who will lead you professionally and passionately throughout the entire journey. This tour is designed for climbers with good rock experience (5C/6A).

But the opportunities don’t end there! Customize your package according to your availability and individual preferences. We are here to fulfill your every request, adding or removing services to create the tailor-made experience you are looking for.

Don’t miss the opportunity to live an unforgettable experience among the peaks of the enchanting Italian Alps!





Copri
Period

Spring, Summer

Athletic level

1

Ideal for

Couples, Singles

Duration

2 days

Technical level

2

People

2

Tour type

Round trip

D+

0m

Q max

0 m

Total km

0km

D-

0

Q min

0

Ground

Single track, Mule track

Period

Spring, Summer

Duration

2 days

People

2

Ideal for

Couples, Singles

Technical level

2

Athletic level

1

Km totali

0

Tour type

Point to point

Ground

3

D +

0

D -

0

Q max

0

Q min

0

Comfort

2

Landscape/nature

3

culture

2

Relax

2

Accomodation: Refuge

Meals: Packed, Refuge

WHAT TO EXPECT:
  • 2 days of TRAD climbing on multipitch routes at Sergent, Caporal, and Aimonin, retracing the history of Nuovo Mattino
  • Possibility of climbing the most important and well-known cracks and dihedrals in the valley
  • Required technical level: 5C/6A, good trekking experience
  • Overnight stays in mountain huts
  • All meals are included, featuring local KM0 products
  • Guidance by certified mountain guides fluent in English
  • Close encounters with the typical wildlife of the Gran Paradiso National Park (ibex, chamois, eagles, bearded vultures, marmots, etc.)
  • Authentic immersion in a wild and unspoiled location, unknown to mass tourism
  • Visits to protected natural areas, including the oldest national park in Italy, Gran Paradiso Park
  • Possibility of customizing the tour with other activities or experiences, cultural visits, additional days, or other extras (see dedicated section)
SUSTAINABLE TOUR:
  • We commit to collecting any waste found during the excursion
  • We offer the option to offset the CO2 emissions produced by the tour by planting trees
  • We choose eco-friendly accommodations and restaurants that offer local, organic, and KM0 products whenever possible
  • We strive to minimize the use of motorized vehicles as much as possible

Terms and conditions​

Here are our booking and payment policies:

  • 30% deposit upon reservation
  • Balance due within 15 days from the tour departure date
Here are our trip cancellation policies:

  • Cancellation up to 60 days prior to departure: full refund (100%)
  • Cancellation between 60 and 30 days prior to departure: 50% refund
  • Cancellation between 30 and 15 days prior to departure: 30% refund
  • Cancellation within 15 days prior to departure: no refund
For the complete terms and conditions, please refer to this page: https://www.southfaceparadise.com/term-condition/

Fill out the form to request information

   Price: 719 €

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