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Climbing in Valle Orco Multipitch routes at Sergent and Caporal on the trail of Nuovo Mattino Canavese Piedmont
Noasca, Ceresole Reale
IT, EN
★★★★★ 0.0/5
Period
Spring, Summer
Athletic level
1
Ideal for
Couples, Singles
Duration
1 h
Technical level
2
People
2
Tour type
Round trip
D+
0m
Q max
0 m
Total km
0km
D-
0m
Q min
0 m
Ground
Single track, Mule track
Period
Spring, Summer
Duration
1 h
People
2
Ideal for
Couples, Singles
Technical level
2
Athletic level
1
Total Km
0km
Tour type
Round trip
Ground
Single track, Mule track
D+
0m
D-
0m
Q max
0 m
Q min
0 m
Comfort
2
Landscape/nature
3
culture
2
Relax
2
Sistemazione: Refuge
Pasti: Packed
© OpenStreetMap contributors
Main points
Description
Program
Included / Extras available
Not included
What will you need
Practical info
How to reach us
WHAT TO EXPECT:
- 2 days of TRAD climbing on multipitch routes at Sergent, Caporal, and Aimonin, retracing the history of Nuovo Mattino
- Possibility of climbing the most important and well-known cracks and dihedrals in the valley
- Required technical level: 5C/6A, good trekking experience
- Overnight stays in mountain huts
- All meals are included, featuring local KM0 products
- Guidance by certified mountain guides fluent in English
- Close encounters with the typical wildlife of the Gran Paradiso National Park (ibex, chamois, eagles, bearded vultures, marmots, etc.)
- Authentic immersion in a wild and unspoiled location, unknown to mass tourism
- Visits to protected natural areas, including the oldest national park in Italy, Gran Paradiso Park
- Possibility of customizing the tour with other activities or experiences, cultural visits, additional days, or other extras (see dedicated section)
SUSTAINABLE TOUR:
- We commit to collecting any waste found during the excursion
- We offer the option to offset the CO2 emissions produced by the tour by planting trees
- We choose eco-friendly accommodations and restaurants that offer local, organic, and KM0 products whenever possible
- We strive to minimize the use of motorized vehicles as much as possible
Welcome to the epic adventure that awaits you in the magnificent Orco Valley, a climber's paradise known worldwide!
This valley is called the "European Yosemite" because its majestic rock walls resemble those iconic ones in the famous Yosemite, albeit on a smaller scale. It was right here, in the '70s, during the era of the "Nuovo Mattino," that a revolution took place, forever transforming the world of mountaineering and rock climbing in Italy and beyond.
It is to honor the legendary Capitan of Yosemite that the walls between Noasca and Ceresole were named by their discoverers and pioneers in the '70s, Caporal and Sergent.
Quoting the words of Mike Kosterlitz, who, together with Gian Piero Motti, is one of the main protagonists of the Nuovo Martino: "It was incredible, simply incredible. There was this continuous succession of granite walls, each more beautiful and bigger than the previous one, where everything was still to be done, everything. It was like discovering a Yosemite behind your own doorstep. For me, accustomed to the small walls of Wales and Derbyshire, exploited to the last hold, it was a paradise on earth. There was more untouched rock on Caporal alone than in all of Snowdonia. We just had to decide where to go, it was absolutely incredible that such places still existed."
If you are fascinated by the history of the "Nuovo Mattino," we invite you to explore the dedicated page to this revolutionary movement that has shaped the history of the valley. You can find it HERE.
With our 2-day package, we offer you the opportunity to relive the historic climbs of these iconic walls. You will tackle the mythical walls of Sergent, Caporal, or Torre di Aimonin through the most important and significant routes, or you can choose from a targeted selection of the valley's most famous and beautiful cracks and dihedrals, such as Fessura della disperazione, Incastromania, Sitting Bull, Orecchio del Pachiderma, or the impressive Nanchez dihedral.
Based on your level of experience, we will select the most suitable routes to provide you with an exciting and rewarding challenge. The granite, cracks, and the history that permeate the south face of Gran Paradiso and the Orco Valley will leave you speechless.
You will be accompanied by certified mountain guides, fluent in English, who will lead you professionally and passionately throughout the entire journey. This tour is designed for climbers with good rock experience (5C/6A).
But the opportunities don't end there! Customize your package according to your availability and individual preferences. We are here to fulfill your every request, adding or removing services to create the tailor-made experience you are looking for.
Don't miss the opportunity to live an unforgettable experience among the peaks of the enchanting Italian Alps!
This valley is called the "European Yosemite" because its majestic rock walls resemble those iconic ones in the famous Yosemite, albeit on a smaller scale. It was right here, in the '70s, during the era of the "Nuovo Mattino," that a revolution took place, forever transforming the world of mountaineering and rock climbing in Italy and beyond.
It is to honor the legendary Capitan of Yosemite that the walls between Noasca and Ceresole were named by their discoverers and pioneers in the '70s, Caporal and Sergent.
Quoting the words of Mike Kosterlitz, who, together with Gian Piero Motti, is one of the main protagonists of the Nuovo Martino: "It was incredible, simply incredible. There was this continuous succession of granite walls, each more beautiful and bigger than the previous one, where everything was still to be done, everything. It was like discovering a Yosemite behind your own doorstep. For me, accustomed to the small walls of Wales and Derbyshire, exploited to the last hold, it was a paradise on earth. There was more untouched rock on Caporal alone than in all of Snowdonia. We just had to decide where to go, it was absolutely incredible that such places still existed."
If you are fascinated by the history of the "Nuovo Mattino," we invite you to explore the dedicated page to this revolutionary movement that has shaped the history of the valley. You can find it HERE.
With our 2-day package, we offer you the opportunity to relive the historic climbs of these iconic walls. You will tackle the mythical walls of Sergent, Caporal, or Torre di Aimonin through the most important and significant routes, or you can choose from a targeted selection of the valley's most famous and beautiful cracks and dihedrals, such as Fessura della disperazione, Incastromania, Sitting Bull, Orecchio del Pachiderma, or the impressive Nanchez dihedral.
Based on your level of experience, we will select the most suitable routes to provide you with an exciting and rewarding challenge. The granite, cracks, and the history that permeate the south face of Gran Paradiso and the Orco Valley will leave you speechless.
You will be accompanied by certified mountain guides, fluent in English, who will lead you professionally and passionately throughout the entire journey. This tour is designed for climbers with good rock experience (5C/6A).
But the opportunities don't end there! Customize your package according to your availability and individual preferences. We are here to fulfill your every request, adding or removing services to create the tailor-made experience you are looking for.
Don't miss the opportunity to live an unforgettable experience among the peaks of the enchanting Italian Alps!
1° Giorno:
- Meeting in the morning at Ceresole Reale with the Alpine Guide. Equipment check and car transfer to the starting point of the itinerary
- Climbing on multipitch routes and/or cracks, chosen according to the participants' level
- Typical snack and relaxation at the end
- In the afternoon, there will be exercises at the climbing crag
- Dinner and overnight stay at Rifugio Le Fonti Minerali
2° Giorno:
- Wake-up call and breakfast
- Meeting in the morning with the Alpine Guide. Equipment check and car transfer to the starting point of the itinerary
- Climbing on multipitch routes and/or cracks, chosen according to the participants' level
- Typical snack and relaxation at the end
- End of the tour
Incluso
Extra
Certified guide
Equipment
Insurance
GPS track
Car rental
Luggage transfer
Personal equipment
Yoga
Wine harvest experience
- Airport/station transfer to and from the meeting point
- Anything not specified in "Included"
- Extra meals and beverages not specified
- Equipment if not specified
EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING:
- Backpack (25/30l)
- Water bottle
- Hiking and climbing shoes
- Layered technical clothing suitable for mountaineering
- Down jacket
- Mountaineering pants
- Harness, lanyard, chalk bag, personal/individual gear
- Mountaineering helmet
- Spare T-shirts
- Waterproof and windproof jacket (shell)
- Trekking poles
- Crack gloves and cold weather gloves
PERSONAL HYGIENE ITEMS:
- Face mask
- Sleeping bag liner
- Hand sanitizer
ACCESSORIES:
- Sunglasses
- Sunscreen with appropriate UV protection
- Lip balm with UV protection
- Mobile phone and charger
- Headlamp
ADDITIONAL RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES:
- Thermal underwear (in cold weather and based on personal preferences)
- First aid kit (important: adhesive bandages)
- Energy bars
- GPS
- Power bank for your mobile phone
REQUIRED TRAVEL DOCUMENTS:
- ID card / Passport
If you need equipment or anything else, don't hesitate to contact us!
We will take care of rentals and provide you with what you need!
- Backpack (25/30l)
- Water bottle
- Hiking and climbing shoes
- Layered technical clothing suitable for mountaineering
- Down jacket
- Mountaineering pants
- Harness, lanyard, chalk bag, personal/individual gear
- Mountaineering helmet
- Spare T-shirts
- Waterproof and windproof jacket (shell)
- Trekking poles
- Crack gloves and cold weather gloves
PERSONAL HYGIENE ITEMS:
- Face mask
- Sleeping bag liner
- Hand sanitizer
ACCESSORIES:
- Sunglasses
- Sunscreen with appropriate UV protection
- Lip balm with UV protection
- Mobile phone and charger
- Headlamp
ADDITIONAL RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES:
- Thermal underwear (in cold weather and based on personal preferences)
- First aid kit (important: adhesive bandages)
- Energy bars
- GPS
- Power bank for your mobile phone
REQUIRED TRAVEL DOCUMENTS:
- ID card / Passport
If you need equipment or anything else, don't hesitate to contact us!
We will take care of rentals and provide you with what you need!
Responsible Traveler
To travel in respect of the environment, places, and the people who welcome us:
- Always ask before taking photos of people
- Leave no trace, do not litter
- Do not collect "souvenirs" from protected natural environments and archaeological sites
- Always try to follow the trails, do not disturb animals, and do not damage plants
- Do not waste water and energy, precious resources for the entire planet
- Respect the rules established by the owners of accommodation facilities
Accommodation and Meals
For a sustainable tour with minimal impact, we offer B&Bs and hotels as the default accommodation, with a strong focus on sustainability and eco-friendly facilities.
All breakfasts, lunches, and dinners are included and are typical of the region, sourced locally. Other meals not mentioned in the description of each stage are not included in the fee. For each meal, 1 liter of beer/wine/water or non-alcoholic beverages is included.
To travel in respect of the environment, places, and the people who welcome us:
- Always ask before taking photos of people
- Leave no trace, do not litter
- Do not collect "souvenirs" from protected natural environments and archaeological sites
- Always try to follow the trails, do not disturb animals, and do not damage plants
- Do not waste water and energy, precious resources for the entire planet
- Respect the rules established by the owners of accommodation facilities
Accommodation and Meals
For a sustainable tour with minimal impact, we offer B&Bs and hotels as the default accommodation, with a strong focus on sustainability and eco-friendly facilities.
All breakfasts, lunches, and dinners are included and are typical of the region, sourced locally. Other meals not mentioned in the description of each stage are not included in the fee. For each meal, 1 liter of beer/wine/water or non-alcoholic beverages is included.
Whether you are traveling by train or by plane, the Orco Valley and Gran Paradiso National Park are easily accessible from the main stations and airports in Milan and Turin, in approximately 2-3 hours.
From Turin:
From Torino Lingotto, Porta Nuova, or Porta Susa train stations, take the Canavesana railway line towards Rivarolo Canavese.
At Rivarolo, disembark and take the bus to Ceresole Reale.
From Turin-Caselle Airport, take the train to Torino Dora station.
At Torino Dora, take the Canavesana railway line towards Rivarolo Canavese.
At Rivarolo, disembark and take the bus to Ceresole Reale.
From Milan:
From Milan Centrale station, take the train towards Torino Porta Nuova.
From Porta Nuova station, take the Canavesana railway line towards Rivarolo Canavese.
At Rivarolo, disembark and take the bus to Ceresole Reale.
From Milan Malpensa Airport, take the Malpensa Express train to Milan Centrale station.
At Milan Centrale, take a train to Torino Porta Nuova.
At Torino Porta Nuova, disembark, change trains, and take the Canavesana railway line towards Rivarolo Canavese.
Disembark at Rivarolo Canavese station and take the bus to Ceresole Reale.
Alternatively, by bus:
From Milan Malpensa Airport, take the SADEM bus to Torino Porta Susa station.
From Torino Porta Susa station, take the Canavesana railway line towards Rivarolo Canavese.
At Rivarolo, disembark and take the bus to Ceresole Reale.
By Car from Turin:
Drive towards the north ring road of Turin, take the exit to Caselle, and follow the Torino-Caselle expressway. Take the third exit towards Rivarolo/Parco Gran Paradiso (SS460) and follow it to Ceresole Reale.
By Car from Milan:
Take the A4 highway towards Turin, exit at Santhia' towards Ivrea/Aosta (E25), and at Ivrea, exit again and follow the signs to Ceresole Reale/Parco Gran Paradiso.
Contact us if you need a private transfer from Milan/Turin to Canavese, or if you require further information on how to reach us.
From Turin:
From Torino Lingotto, Porta Nuova, or Porta Susa train stations, take the Canavesana railway line towards Rivarolo Canavese.
At Rivarolo, disembark and take the bus to Ceresole Reale.
From Turin-Caselle Airport, take the train to Torino Dora station.
At Torino Dora, take the Canavesana railway line towards Rivarolo Canavese.
At Rivarolo, disembark and take the bus to Ceresole Reale.
From Milan:
From Milan Centrale station, take the train towards Torino Porta Nuova.
From Porta Nuova station, take the Canavesana railway line towards Rivarolo Canavese.
At Rivarolo, disembark and take the bus to Ceresole Reale.
From Milan Malpensa Airport, take the Malpensa Express train to Milan Centrale station.
At Milan Centrale, take a train to Torino Porta Nuova.
At Torino Porta Nuova, disembark, change trains, and take the Canavesana railway line towards Rivarolo Canavese.
Disembark at Rivarolo Canavese station and take the bus to Ceresole Reale.
Alternatively, by bus:
From Milan Malpensa Airport, take the SADEM bus to Torino Porta Susa station.
From Torino Porta Susa station, take the Canavesana railway line towards Rivarolo Canavese.
At Rivarolo, disembark and take the bus to Ceresole Reale.
By Car from Turin:
Drive towards the north ring road of Turin, take the exit to Caselle, and follow the Torino-Caselle expressway. Take the third exit towards Rivarolo/Parco Gran Paradiso (SS460) and follow it to Ceresole Reale.
By Car from Milan:
Take the A4 highway towards Turin, exit at Santhia' towards Ivrea/Aosta (E25), and at Ivrea, exit again and follow the signs to Ceresole Reale/Parco Gran Paradiso.
Contact us if you need a private transfer from Milan/Turin to Canavese, or if you require further information on how to reach us.
Terms and conditions
Here are our booking and payment policies:
- 30% deposit upon reservation
- Balance due within 15 days from the tour departure date
- Cancellation up to 60 days prior to departure: full refund (100%)
- Cancellation between 60 and 30 days prior to departure: 50% refund
- Cancellation between 30 and 15 days prior to departure: 30% refund
- Cancellation within 15 days prior to departure: no refund